The Rosegold Magazine . You own your FASHION
Glow in the dark at Saint Laurent FW 19/20
28th February 2019 - Aina Matamoros
Saint Laurent is one of the first brands to present its new collection during Paris Fashion Week. So the expectation around it and the show is pretty high, especially when one of its latest shows was under the Eiffel Tower (easy and modest, right?). This time, Saint Laurent did not show under the most famous monument of the world but Anthony Vaccarello, its creative director, decided to give a special touch to his designs at the end of the show (wait for it).
However, Vaccarello’s collection stood genuinely and confidently by itself, once again. Since the beginning, and he has been in the brand for almost three years now, he knew how to capture Yves Saint Laurent’s essence and values of luxury prêt-à-porter on the designs and mix them with his renovated and fierce vision of fashion in today’s world. The rebellious spirit of the founder of the brand is still there, alive, and ready for whatever comes.
The show started with a series of black & white looks, introducing some color and animal print touches as it kept going. We have to highlight here the amazing coat inspired by YSL’s muse Betty Catroux, showing the fact that he lives and performs the standards of the Brand, as we were saying.
Vaccarello introduced some awesome accessorizes such as titled hats covering the model’s faces, little polka dot printed tights, huge belts with big golden buckles and leather knee boots, some of them with feathers on top (pure fantasy). Super short shorts and super short (mostly little sparkling dark) dresses were the stars of the night. These dresses were all black, but presented different designs: sequined, studded, architectural shapes (strategically covering the model’s nipples), blazer dresses… And all of them were matched with a kind of sparkling swimming cap.
Of course, also the color black, the leather and the sparkle (with sequins, studs or shinny fabrics) were the stars in almost all the looks of the show. “It’s always the same…” you might think. And I agree and don’t agree. I agree with it in a very positive way, because a brand has its signature touches and looks, so the designs have to include them proudly. I don’t agree because each season, Vaccarello introduces new shapes, new clothes and new approaches to dress the Saint Laurent woman: a fierce, strong, smart and super confident woman.
And now, the final moment is here. We can finally reveal what Saint Laurent did at the end of its FW1920 show. Lights went out and the models started walking behind a wall of glass, in blacklight, with a Yayoi Kusama Infinity Room mirror situation behind them. The looks were especially made with neon fabrics that glow in this darkness. White and neon lime green, orange and pinkish shoes, dresses and fur coats descended the renovated catwalk in this cool and dramatic stage.
Some might like it and some others might not, but we have to admit that it was different and everybody talked about it. On a personal note, I really liked it. And we all have to admit that Vaccarello and Saint Laurent got it again: everybody talked about their show because of the glow in the dark outfits, but also, and more importantly, because of the perfection of the collection.